Papassini from Ittiri
Diamond-shaped Sardinian biscuits from Ittiri made with strutto, sultanas, and toasted almonds, finished with a crisp meringue glaze and sugar strands.
Ingredients
Dough
Meringue glaze
Decoration
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Instructions
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Soak the sultanas in warm water overnight. The next day, drain them well and pat dry.
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Make the dough. In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, strutto, eggs, and almond extract. Work the mixture with your hands until it forms a crumbly, cohesive mass.
Tip: The strutto should be soft but not melted. If it is too cold, let it sit at room temperature for 15 minutes before using. -
Dissolve the ammonium bicarbonate in the warm milk and add it to the dough. Mix until incorporated.
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Fold in the drained sultanas and chopped toasted almonds. Work the dough gently — you want the fruit and nuts distributed evenly without turning the dough gummy.
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Wrap the dough tightly in plastic film and refrigerate overnight. This rest firms the dough and makes it easier to roll.
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The next day, roll the dough out to about 5 mm thick on a floured surface. Cut into diamond shapes with a knife.
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Arrange the diamonds on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake at 170 C for 17 to 20 minutes until pale golden and firm to the touch.
Tip: These should not brown deeply. They are done when the edges are set and the surface is dry. -
Cool completely on a wire rack before glazing.
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Make the meringue glaze. Whip the egg white to stiff peaks. Meanwhile, boil the 250g of sugar with the water until it reaches thread stage (about 110 C). Pour the hot syrup over the whipped egg white in a thin stream, whisking constantly, until the mixture is thick, glossy, and cool enough to handle.
Tip: Pour the syrup slowly and keep whisking. If you add it too fast, the egg white will scramble. -
Spread the glaze over each cooled biscuit and top with sugar strands before the glaze sets.
Storage & Meal Prep
Papassini keep for 2 to 3 weeks in an airtight tin. The meringue glaze stays crisp as long as they are stored in a dry place. They also freeze well for up to a month.
Variations
- With Lemon Zest: Add the zest of one lemon to the dough for a brighter flavour that complements the almond extract.
- Butter Instead of Strutto: You can replace the strutto with softened butter, though the texture will be slightly different — less short and more cakey.
FAQ
What is ammonium bicarbonate?
Ammonium bicarbonate is a traditional Italian leavening agent, often sold as 'ammoniaca per dolci'. It gives biscuits a light, crisp texture and a slight ammonia smell during baking that disappears completely once cooled. You can substitute baking powder, but the crumb will be denser.
Why soak the sultanas overnight?
An overnight soak plumps the sultanas fully so they stay soft and juicy in the baked biscuit. A shorter soak works, but the overnight method gives better results.
What is thread stage for the sugar syrup?
Thread stage is when a spoonful of the boiling sugar syrup forms a thin thread when pulled between two fingers, around 110 C. If you do not have a thermometer, dip a wooden spoon in the syrup and blow on it — when the bubbles form thin threads, it is ready.
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The Story Behind This Dish
Papassini from Ittiri are a specific version of the Sardinian dried-fruit biscuit, and the town takes them seriously. The dough is built on strutto — rendered pork fat — which gives the biscuit a short, tender crumb that butter alone cannot match. Sultanas and toasted almonds go into the mix, and the whole thing rests overnight so the flavours settle and the dough firms up enough to roll cleanly.
The leavening comes from ammonium bicarbonate, a traditional Italian baking agent that you still find in most pharmacies and grocery stores on the island. It gives the biscuits a light, open texture and dissipates completely during baking. If you have never used it, the ammonia smell during baking can be startling, but it is gone by the time the biscuits come out of the oven.
The meringue glaze is the distinctive finish. Sugar boiled to thread stage gets poured over stiffly whipped egg white, and the resulting foam is spread thick over each cooled biscuit. It dries to a crisp, shiny shell that contrasts with the dense, nutty crumb underneath.
Part of: The Sardinian Kitchen
Related: Sardinian Table: Real Meals | Sardinian Ingredients Guide